[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 4 points 1 hour ago

I want it to be modular, so if I add another 2 servers, I can just add the server module in front, and its power module at the back.

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 1 points 1 hour ago

Nice thanks!! You can get a 3D printer for fairly cheap to get started, the one I have is only 280 Euro now with 4 spools of filament

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 5 points 2 hours ago

Nice thanks, that sounds good. I'd definitely only want to push to one place, if it then syncs to GitHub that's fine.

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 29 points 4 hours ago

Thanks yea I've used Codeberg before, but the main reason I use GitHub, is I try to create a good looking profile to point potential new Clients to when I'm looking for a new job, explaining Codeberg to them I feel is a step too much, and my income is Priority Nr1.

I'll fight the Open-Source, anti-Big-Tech fight elsewhere.

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 7 points 4 hours ago

Sure thing, there's lots more details on my GitHub Write-Up including how to wire it up etc.

image image

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 21 points 4 hours ago* (last edited 4 hours ago)

Yea each one runs through the previous module, so all the power goes through the first module.

IEC 13/14 connectors are rated for 10A (2300 W at 230 V) which isn't much lower than what you can run through your wall outlet. And in reality they can probably handle 15A(What your wall can handle) as they are commonly refereed to as "Kettle cords" and used by kettles which draw ~13 Amps.

That's very high, to give you an idea the 6 things I have plugged in draws ~240w, so I could chain up ~60 mini PC's and only then would I be over the ~2300w limit.

I do now mention this in the Safety section of my "How to build this" write up

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 13 points 5 hours ago* (last edited 4 hours ago)

Thanks yea I made sure to add this Safety section to my write-up on how to build this yourself, and I reference back to it a lot, so it's painfully clear.

I printed this in PETG which can take the heat easily, but ideally you use UL 94 V-0 which is also flame retardant.

I did make sure everything is very well insulated, and pulled hard on every connection to make sure it's held down properly.

**Safety**  

This part carries live mains. Mains wiring kills people who get it wrong, and a fault in a printed enclosure can start a fire.  

Do not build it unless you are competent to wire mains and permitted to do so where you live. Sleeve or shroud all live terminals. PLA softens around 60 °C, PETG around 80 °C. Neither is flame retardant. Only a UL 94 V-0 filament is.  

Wire the protective earth if anything you plug in needs it.  

Build it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for injury, death, fire, or damage resulting from anything in this repository.  
[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 3 points 5 hours ago

I have the Anycubic Kobra X, and used Onshape to 3D model things, it's fairly easy to do. I for some reason just decided to make something incredibly complicated lol.

Lots of good YouTube tutorials out there to teach you everything you'd need to know.

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 2 points 5 hours ago

I have the Anycubic Kobra X, you can buy it for 280 Euro including 4 roles of filament.

It's the first one I ever got, great price and quality for getting your feet wet with 3D printing. My boy-math figured that it will pay for itself eventually by printing things instead of buying.

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 3 points 5 hours ago* (last edited 5 hours ago)

Thanks!! Designing it was a BITCH, I knew almost nothing about CAD going into this, but hopefully my designs can help some others cleanup the power side of their racks.

It was a lot of fun learning though, and now I've made proper use of my 3D printer.

[-] Legion739@piefed.zip 68 points 5 hours ago* (last edited 4 hours ago)

Preemptively responding to this, because I just know there's going to be a comment about this.

Yes Yes I know, GitHub, screw GitHub, Screw Microslop. I am trying to move away from Big Tech as much as possible, but it's a marathon not a sprint, and every win should be celebrated.

Perfection is the enemy of good.
.

285
submitted 5 hours ago* (last edited 5 hours ago) by Legion739@piefed.zip to c/selfhosted@lemmy.world

I've seen so many 10" servers that look amazing from the front and very polished, but then having a rats nest of cables and a mess at the back.

After 62 iterations and many 3D prints, blood, sweat, profanity and tears. I my design and implementation is finally done. image
I used Hexagons where possible, because as you know, Hexagons are the bestagons

This is Before:
image

And the After:
image
The ducky adds 200MHz

The front of my mini-rack is actually still somewhat of a mess, I thought I'd focus on the back first.

I've published it in excruciating detail on my GitHub Leave a Star if you like what you see.

I self host a bunch of stuff on here to get away from Big-Tech, and because I find it fun. For a lot more details see https://erasmus.works/

It always bothered me the the fronts of racs are modular, but not the backs, this solves that
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hopefully this helps other clear up their rats nests.

16
submitted 6 hours ago* (last edited 6 hours ago) by Legion739@piefed.zip to c/piefed_meta@piefed.social

I made a brand new account, and on first login this is my feed.

Not sure if it's just this instance that has this issue, but perhaps some on-boarding? Or a better default feed, that would appeal to "Average" people, and show some casual subs etc.

image

It would be nice to have the default feed be more diverse, or even better have a screen that says "Hey here are ~50 popular topics, click the ones you're interested in"

User retention might not be great if the default feed is this.

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Legion739

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