Warhammer 40k
A community dedicated to the universe of Warhammer 40k, a tabletop setting in the far, distant future.
This is a general community for 40k miniatures, art, lore discussion, and gameplay discussion.
Rules
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Keep it civil. Don’t insult other community members in posts or comments, and don’t make posts designed to insult other community members or parts of the fandom with different opinions.
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Posts must be on-topic.
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No real life politics. That means no political advocacy, and no real life political discussions vaguely dressed up as on-topic posts. If you want to discuss real life politics, you are free to start your own community.
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No memes/low-effort spam/Youtube poops style posts. grimdank is a place for those.
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Posts must be coherent.
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If a post is otherwise allowed but has realistic gore or nudity, please mark it NSFW.
Helpful Links
- 10th Edition Rules
- iOS Warhammer 40k App
- Android Warhammer 40k App
- 3rd party site for running Kill Team games
Related 40K Communities:
!imaginarywarhammer@lemmy.world
Other tabletop hobby communities:
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Yeah big red areas can be tough. I’ve taken to just spray painting red bodied vehicles these days. Works great if they are sprayed black first and then red from above. Gives shading in a nice gradient.
I’d personally suggest some dry brushed orange highlights before you start picking out details. Orange on red really help it pop.
The red is coming out alright so far; I kinda like the variation in colour. What orange would you recommend? I have wild rider red and fire dragon bright on hand.
I'm mostly disappointed with the sepia over wraithbone. Just came out so uneven :(
I mean, I go up to Trollslayer Orange with a very gentle drybrushing. Extreme colors applied gently seems to work well. Focused on corners more than anything.
I think your disappointment with the Sepia wash is a result of applying it to such flat surfaces. Concentrating the wash on edges like on the front where the bone color meets the red, and on the details of the doors, but being ok with the flat areas being flat colored is better I think.
Just my opinion, and there are tons of way better tank painters online. This is an old WIP picture of a tank I quick and dirty did a night before it was needed, to show an example of orange highlights. Not high art but it did the job.
Vallejo Dark model wash is also great for adding dark spots to vehicles and metal I’ve found. It acts much differently than Nuln or even my own DIY ink washes. It can be stippled on and won’t leave tide pools, though rather than flowing into recesses it stays on the surface and has a long working time to adjust. Good for making metallic shading or carbon kind of buildup.