this post was submitted on 10 Aug 2026
48 points (96.2% liked)

Buy it for Life

9094 readers
23 users here now

A place to share practical, durable and quality made products that are made to last, with an emphasis on upcycled and sustainable products!

Guidelines:

Things that are well-made and durable (even if they won't last a lifetime) are A-Okay!

Unlike that other BIFL place, Home-made and DIY items are encouraged here, as long as some form of instruction is included in the body of the post.

Videos links are not allowed as post titles, but you may use them in a text post.

A limited amount of self-promotion is accepted, IF the item you are selling aligns with this criteria:

  1. The item must be made with sustainable or recycled materials.
  2. If electronic in some way, the item must be open-source.
  3. The item must be user-serviceable (if applicable).
  4. You cannot be a large corporation.
  5. The post must be clearly marked with a [Self Promotion] tag in your title.

founded 3 years ago
MODERATORS
 

What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

I'm looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

  1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
  2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
  3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
  4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
  5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
  6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
  7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
  8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
  9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
  10. NSF certified

From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant -- is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware :(

So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

  • Browne Thermalloy
  • All-Clad
  • Made-in
  • Tramontina
  • Cuisinart
  • Other?

Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] solrize@lemmy.ml 21 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (3 children)

Is BIFL now just a euphemism for "expensive"? Buy anything steel or iron without nonstick coatings and take care of it, and it won't wear out. Most of my cooking stuff came from thrift stores or flea markets.

Aluminum won't work on an induction cooker, I'm pretty sure. Anyway, on a normal electric or gas cooktop, you can melt it by accident. So I'd stay away.

I don't have induction so can't report from experience, but I'm not sure how much heat conductivity matters on an induction cooker. The heat is generated in the pot itself rather than conducted up from a hot cooktop.

I think it doesn't matter much for regular cooking either, unless you're doing some gourmet shenanigans that require precision. I use stainless steel for some things and it's fine for my low tech purposes. Cast iron is similar, I think.

[–] noodles@slrpnk.net 12 points 2 days ago (1 children)

I think there are two mindsets in BIFL communities that somewhat diametrically oppose each other. There's the "I'm tired of buying cheap crap that falls apart when I use it; recommend me an economical drop in that I can mildly abuse and it won't fall apart," and there's the "I have some money and want to spend it wisely on really nice stuff that my descendents will fight over because it's so nice and still going strong."

Obviously there are others and it's a continuum, but I think a lot of people talk past each other because they might recommend e.g. hugely expensive heirloom pans for your great grandkids to admire, when what OP wants is something that can take a beating from randos and still work fine or be recoverable. Or, conversely, someone else might be looking for that recommendation of beautiful sauciers to proudly have on display on their pot rack, and what they're recommended is crusty thrift-store lodges that they have to refinish themselves.

[–] ggtdbz@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 1 day ago

I think those are where it started from but the BIFL sub degraded into a community built around obsessive buying of the “right” stuff.

I have a cheap nonstick pan. I use it like five times a year. I’m fine with that. Regular stainless pots and pans will last well over a decade unless you start dropping them on the floor twice a week, even if they’re not as fancy as the stuff that gets advertised as BIFL. It’s not that complicated

[–] cymbal_king@lemmy.world 11 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (2 children)

Second the thrift store stainless steel and cast iron and have an induction cooktop. Much more economical than a brand new top of the line cookware. They still last a good amount of time (haven't had one fail yet) and IF they fail, replacing with another thrift store pan is also pretty inexpensive.

Just bring a magnet to the store with you. If it sticks to the bottom then it'll work with induction

[–] solrize@lemmy.ml 4 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (3 children)

haven’t had one fail yet

It it even possible for an uncoated pot or pan to fail, other than by melting? Ok I've had some handles come loose, but that's tolerable or probably fixable.

I had a secondhand pot that had a second bottom stuck on to even out the heating as far as I could tell. It fell off. Maybe fixable.

I had it for 10 years so I was satisfied I got my money's worth and bought myself a much nicer pot.

[–] Emma_Gold_Man@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Yes, actually! Uneven heat is the culprit. See my reply above about cast iron failure on induction. Very thin carbon steel pans can warp for similar reasons, and I would assume the same for large, empty aluminum pans on very high heat (though I haven't seen that reported. The solution in both cases is to start on a lower setting and raise the temperature gradually.

The warping may be why thin, round-bottomed carbon steel woks are easy to find but the same doesn't seem to be true of flat-bottomed frying pans.

[–] cymbal_king@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Yeah, most likely the rivets holding the handle on to the pan are what fail

[–] solrize@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Yeah I have an old farberware saucepan with a loose handle. I keep using it but may have to look into some hacky repair if it gets too much worse. There's a metal lug riveted to the pan and then the bakelite handle is somehow connected to the lug. I think it's the handle-to-lug joint that has gotten loose, but I haven't examined it closely to figure out what's wrong. I might try J-B Weld epoxy if I have to fix it. J-B Weld is supposed to be good up to 600F or so, and I think the top part of the pan (where the handle is attached) won't get nearly that hot.

[–] raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Just as a point for the OP: most stainless won't work on induction. Test it with a magnet before you buy. If a magnet won't stick to it, induction won't work.

[–] modem_down@thebrainbin.org 2 points 2 days ago

Gosh, you've posted this misinformation twice under the same OP. It's just not true.

[–] CameronDev@programming.dev 5 points 2 days ago (1 children)

As long as there is a layer of magnetic steel, it will work fine on induction.

I don't think your gonna accidentally melt aluminium either, getting it up to 660c on a stovetop is a feat requiring a serious effort.

[–] solrize@lemmy.ml 5 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Yes you can melt aluminum cookware by accident. Ask me how I know. Well you can probably guess.

[–] CameronDev@programming.dev 4 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Can I ask how you did it? I've used aluminium pans on gas and induction, never got it close to melting. The coating would have smelt awful long before it got close to melting.

[–] solrize@lemmy.ml 6 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Regular electric stove, the kind with the resistance coils. I left a pot on top and the contents boiled away and then a big chunk of the pot bottom melted.

[–] CameronDev@programming.dev 9 points 2 days ago

I think I'm more impressed with your stove then :D