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submitted 10 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by randombullet@programming.dev to c/analog@lemmy.world

I've always been frustrated about film scanning being locked behind a paywall or generic AI slop. I've tried to make this as system agnostic as I can. Please give me feedback so that I can improve this article. Thanks in advance!

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[-] m33@lemmy.zip 4 points 10 months ago

Thanks for sharing, it looks to me great already. And nicely detailed so not only a screenshot collection ๐Ÿ‘

I see you go through the pain of inverting then tuning curves, as it should be. I only do B&W and I dislike this step... the sooner an automatic tuning does it for me the better...

Keep us updated if you continue working on it ๐Ÿ™

[-] randombullet@programming.dev 4 points 10 months ago

Thank you. I definitely need to work on formatting because right now it looks like. Word vomit.

[-] m33@lemmy.zip 1 points 10 months ago

Maybe some paragraphs formating or spacing ?

Il reads pretty well on a single column, like a newspaper article

[-] sem@lemmy.ml 4 points 10 months ago

It is very cool but ... very "professional" I would say . I mean just the gear... It is quite an expensive if not say more. Maybe you can add a couple of words about more "entry-level" setup. For example I'm still on relatively chip Plustek 8100 + one old version of VueScan I bought five years ago.

[-] randombullet@programming.dev 5 points 10 months ago

Definitely not wrong. Maybe I should put in that any method that can get consistent scans first is best?

[-] sem@lemmy.ml 1 points 10 months ago

Yes... Or even some overview of possible methods. Even a top level one would be nice, because there are a lot of possible options with gear and software.

[-] gerryflap@feddit.nl 1 points 10 months ago

Thanks for sharing! I personally use Darktable and negadoctor, but honestly this doesn't look too complicated either. Sometimes it's very hard to get consistent results. Usually there's not one set of settings to gets me satisfying results for all photos on a roll (usually due to tinted lighting, under/overexposure, etc). I tried using the first part of the roll, where there's usually a fully exposed and fully unexposed part, for tuning the initial values. But this also doesn't always deliver consistent results. Usually it's a lot of back and forth between different photos.

this post was submitted on 22 Nov 2025
19 points (100.0% liked)

Film Photography

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