Lemmyin

joined 1 year ago
[–] Lemmyin 1 points 1 year ago

I’m not sure of the floor plan or roof type. But what I do is run a cable up the corner and drill a tiny hole right in the corner through the ceiling. Then I use a PoE powered access point and leave it in the ceiling space centrally located. One tiny hole you can patch with just about anything when you move house. If you have a rj45 crimper then the hole can be the diameter of the cable.

I’ve also done something similar where I run Ethernet under the floor. I lift up the carpet slightly right in the corner and drill a hole through the floor and run the Ethernet under the house. You also then take it up into a closet etc.

If you’re more adventurous and confident with electrical work you can also TURN OFF MAINS, then open up a wall power socket, disconnect the wires, tie a pull wire and your Ethernet cable very securely, and go into the roof and pull the two through into the roof space. You then tie the end of the elec cable to your pull wire and pull it back down to the socket. You can then get a wall plate that is a power socket and Ethernet female combo and voila….

[–] Lemmyin 2 points 1 year ago

I agree with this. This worked fore when I started. I also used git to manage my config. So I could branch before trying various things and so on and easily return to working configs.

[–] Lemmyin 1 points 1 year ago

I’ve used GlazeWM a bit before switching fully https://github.com/glazerdesktop/GlazeWM

That counts imho.

[–] Lemmyin 1 points 1 year ago

I’d still use LUKS. Even on USB keys.

[–] Lemmyin 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

I still wouldn’t use Veracrypt on a Linux disk. What about LUKS instead?

[–] Lemmyin 3 points 1 year ago (8 children)

If you’re only using the external disk for days you could use ntfs with bitlocker and mount that in Linux. When your rest to fully migrate you could then do something Linux only if you wanted.

[–] Lemmyin 4 points 1 year ago

You should check out d2. It’s a code to diagram tool. You put some very simple coke and it draws your diagram. Quite quick and useful. Been using it for a while now.

[–] Lemmyin 5 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I’ve always said this to people. I use Windows, Linux, and MacOS. I use whatever best suits what I’m doing and I like that idea. It may end up being 20/70/10, but so what. Why battle a shitty Linux app If you have a good MacOS app. Or maybe your liking that windows app for a certain task.

In reality this is really only something a dev or power user would really do though.

[–] Lemmyin 3 points 1 year ago

I had an issue where my docker networks started overlapping my network addresses and I had some issues to connect to the machine etc. so perhaps check to make sure your docker addresses don’t overlap your home network range somehow. Also keep the subnet mask in mind as the range might be bigger than what the first few numbers indicate.

[–] Lemmyin 1 points 1 year ago

I have no idea what types of files these are but it could turn out that you should rather use Git and push/pull from both sides which could works better.

Just a suggestion :)

[–] Lemmyin 2 points 1 year ago

Exactly. It’s documented in the config files!

[–] Lemmyin 4 points 1 year ago (1 children)

No need. The wind will take the guys when they are empty.

 

Made a pricking iron from a bit of copper bus bar I had. I ordered a bunch of 250/27LP sewing machine needles.

2.5mm holes drilled and it’s a perfect fit for the needles. Started off nicely but got caught by drilling copper too fast. Just bound up and broke a drill in the hole. Ffs. Dropped the drill press RPM down to 580 and that worked well.

I will now make a single awl using one of these needles, and a double and quad pricking iron.

https://imgur.com/a/uooMjll

 

Very new to leather work. First time trying to wet mould. I’m very happy with the result :)

 

Hi all,

I’m doing some wet forming projects using 3oz ish natural veg tan. Works well and I’m happy. I form by hand and work the leather quite a bit to get the shape I want. As I do this is as I’m closing up the pores of the leather.

When it’s dry and I go to dye the leather it’s as if the parts I worked by hand, don’t absorb the dye as well as the parts I did not work. Is there a trick somewhere to get a more consistent dye job on these projects?

Thanks!

view more: next ›