One thing that I discovered about charging PS3 pads, which doesn't seem to be mentioned a lot, is that they appear (my guess, unconfirmed) to require proper USB current negotiation before they will start charging. In fact, I've found multiple sources saying that they can be charged from any USB power source, which isn't true.

The original USB standard states that USB hosts should start a connection with 100mA of current, and the client can request increases in 100mA steps up to 500mA. I assume that the PS3 USB ports support this, as do pretty much all computer USB ports. But the majority of wall plug USB chargers don't; they just allow a maximum current draw of 500mA (or more) from the start and ignore increase requests.

It seems like the majority of equipment manufacturers ignored this part of the spec, since the host needs circuitry to limit current in any case, so many chargers don't bother with circuitry to respond, and even when the port does respond to increase requests, the port is actually always allowing the maximum draw and simply approving all requests.

However, I think that the PS3 pads actually wait for an "OK" response before continuing, which the majority of wall chargers (especially the cheap ones) never send. I had to use the PS3 or a PC (direct connection, not through a hub) to charge my pads until I found a cheap PS3 controller charging dock that works with any supply.

Very nice. The minimal permissions are especially welcome for me.

I presume that you have at least some vague idea of what you want your program to do. If not, maybe a good random writing prompt generator can help.

But if you do have something in mind, I usually start by thinking about how I'm going to store my data. That goes hand-in-hand with thinking about how to break up the top-level tasks into individual functions and sub-functions. Those two processes tend to feed into each other, and before I'm aware of it, I've got a basic framework hammered out, at least in my notes.

My main concern is getting games in a form that I can store locally for 20 years and then reasonably expect to boot up and play. A secondary concern (ever since I moved permanently to another country) is going digital whenever possible because shipping stuff long distances is expensive. I had hundreds of physical books that it pained me to give away, but it simply wasn't economical to move them to my new home. I kept my physical games, CDs, and DVDs, because they're mostly thin discs and air-filled plastic cases (often replaceable once paper inserts have been removed) and I was able to bring them over affordably.

Over the last few years I'd say I've slowed down on physical retro collecting and only bought a couple dozen retro console games. More often I sail the high seas looking for them because morally there's no sane argument decades after release that paying $50-100 to a private collector or dealer today has any impact on the developer's or publisher's profits in terms of secondary or tertiary sales. The physical game media and packaging have ceased to be games and have become artifacts, almost independent of their content, like other vintage or antique items. Of course that doesn't apply if the game has been rereleased in more or less its original form, in which case I either buy it (if the price is reasonable) or don't play it at all (if the price is unreasonable). I actually have such a game in digital storage that I've been meaning to play for years, and I learned that it's quite recently been put up in GOG, so now I'm morally obligated to buy it if I still want to play it, heh. Luckily for me the price seems fair.

And speaking of GOG, the majority of my recent game purchases have been split pretty evenly between GOG and itch.io; about 95%. I basically haven't bought anything directly from Steam for more than a decade. I understand that many games there are actually DRM-free, but I'm not interested in trying to research every game before I make a purchase. If each game's store page indicated its true DRM status clearly (not just "third-party DRM"), I'd consider buying through Steam again. As it is, whenever I learn about an interesting game that's on Steam, I try to find it on itch.io or GOG, and if I can't, I generally don't buy it; I'll buy it on Steam only if it looks really interesting and it's dirt cheap.

Whenever I look at ~~buying~~ "leasing with no fixed term" anything with DRM, I assume that it will be taken away from me or otherwise rendered unusable unexpectedly at some point in the future through no fault of my own. It's already happened to me a couple of times, and once bitten, twice shy. I know that everyone loves Gabe Newell, and he seems like a genuinely good guy, and he's said that if Steam ever closed its doors that they'd unlock everything. However the simple fact is that in the majority of situations where that might happen, the call wouldn't be up to Gaben, even for games published by Valve.

So yeah, I may put up with DRM in a completely offline context, but in any situation where my access terms can be changed remotely and unilaterally with a forced update, server shutdown, or removal, that's a hard pass from me.

I'm not sure how common they are outside Japan, but I have a little (about 12" I think) Panasonic "Let's Note" that I use quite a lot as a lightweight coding (and retro/indie gaming :D) device that I can throw in even my smallest bag when there's a chance I'll have to kill more than a few minutes. They're designed to be a little bit rugged. I had Ubuntu on it previously, now Mint, and the only problem I've had is that Linux somehow sees two screen brightness systems, and by default it connects the screen brightness keys to the wrong (i.e. nonexistent) one. Once I traced the problem it was a quick and painless fix.

They seem to be sold worldwide, so you may be able to get one cheaply second-hand. One thing to be careful about is the fact that in order to keep the physical size down, the RAM is soldered to the board. Mine is an older model (5th gen iCore), and has 4GB soldered on but also one SODIMM slot, so I was able to upgrade to 12GB total. But I've noticed that on most later models they got rid of the RAM slots entirely, so whatever RAM it comes with is what you're stuck with.

Apparently the original game and Brood War expansion are free to install through the Battle.Net launcher these days.

If you have the original discs, the later official patches added the ability to copy the "mpq" files from the CD into the game's directory, so you no longer need the disc in the drive. Of course, you're still going to need a drive for the initial installation. That should work for single player (it's been a few years since I last did it) but I don't know about online multiplayer.

I played this on PS2 and I remember thinking at the time that it was extremely adequate. As you say, the reviews at the time were lukewarm but I think it's worth a look for anyone trying scratch that itch who's already finished the bigger names in the genre.

A great stealth/adventure game. It's a pity that only one of the three was localized into English.

Sure, but as far as I'm aware, no other large group of LISP users exists. My contention isn't that most AI researchers use LISP now, but that most LISP programmers are (were?) AI researchers.

I've been trying to learn about early AI work, and I'm finding that to get any practical details you're almost guaranteed to have to wade through LISP code, although at least it's usually pretty well commented.

It always bothered me that Ryo has a Saturn in a story set before the Megadrive had come out. Even the Mark III (later to be rebranded as the Master System) was released a mere 13 months prior to the murder of Ryo's father.

I have a dumb question... Are you declaring "enabled" somewhere outside of any of these functions?