cetan

joined 1 year ago
[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 1 points 4 days ago

I'm glad I'm not the only one to read it that way. ๐Ÿ˜‚

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 1 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago)

A convex edge makes the edge of the knife stronger. The convex edge is also called an "apple seed edge" gives more strength for more difficult/harder tasks. The trade off is that it's going to behave less "sharp" than if you have a standard v-edge. Not that it's not a sharp edge just that it won't be wickedly sharp. However, it's going to last longer than a v-edge (broadly, lots of variables here).

So, for example, woodworking tools will be a v-edge because you want the sharpest possible edge. The trade-off is some of that edge will be less stable/strong over time and you'll need to re-sharpen more regularly.

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 2 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Here's maybe a weird use for this material: If you get a completely smooth foam mat (instead of textured as seen in the photo) you can use spray glue and glue down a sheet of sandpaper. (Or multiple sheets of different grit levels)

Then, on the sandpaper, you can sharpen your knife by hand and give it a strong convex edge instead of a v-edge that you would get from a stone or plate. The "give" of the foam allows the convex shape to be formed in the steel.

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 2 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago)

CRKT continues to be an enigma wrapped in a mystery. I have to imagine each day in the office there is utter chaos. If it's not wild designs it's huge swings from "everything in 8CR" to "you asked for premium steels so now only premium steels"

Anyway, thanks for the review. Not sure if you found this article but it goes into some of the background on the design inspiration: https://www.crkt.com/community/blog/a-second-chance-at-brilliance-meet-the-gravitic-flip

Oh, and Ted has also turned the sharpie into a karambit. He has a consistent design philosophy for sure!
https://spartanbladesusa.com/shop-all/spartan-blades-pen-protector-red/

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (1 children)

Dungeon Crawler Carl...

spoiler
Based on the first couple chapters (I'm only to page 130), I'd say Carl should have had a knife when he entered the dungeon. :)

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 4 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Yes, pressing the button fully releases the blade and the action is very smooth. So it's very easy to wrist-flick open and drop closed. Very little actually wrist movement needed. If you aim the knife down, it'll fall open easily with the button pressed. Same for closing if you hold it upward.

 

Happy 4th of July to those who celebrate. This weekend's carry is the Civivi Elementum button lock. Not to be confused with the later made Elementum II which also has a button lock, but has the original 3" blade. This has a 3.5" blade and the button lock is used for both opening and closing the knife. You cannot open it without using the button. I'm not sure why they designed it this way but the choice makes it very fidget friendly. (The Elementum II is a "normal" button lock with a flipper tab.)

The heat index is 103 deg F as I'm writing this and we lost the nice breeze we had, so I'm already exhausted. Maybe a comparison between the different Elementum versions I have at a future date.

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 4 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

Live and learn indeed. This is important to show, IMHO, and I appreciate you doing so.

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 3 points 2 months ago

The sort of modified spey blade shape of the Yonder is different indeed. I was intrigued by it because I have only 2 other knives with spey blades (both of which are more classic in shape). For sure the Yonder is not for everyone.

The Maximal with it's classic drop-point blade is really good. A no-brainer for recommending to people who are not sure what knife to get first. I'd say the Yonder is for a first knife person who's a bit of an odd duck ๐Ÿ˜… or for a second knife for someone who wants something a little bit different but not too different.

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 3 points 2 months ago

That's basically what I ended up doing the second time around. :)

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 3 points 2 months ago

This is excellent. Done and done.

Except for the first image, everything else is hot linked from my flickr account, so at least I knew where they were but I had to manually re-create all the links.

32
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by cetan@piefed.world to c/pocketknife@lemmy.world
 

Well, I had a whole post written up. Bunch of photos. Talked about YouTuber's designing knives and then PieFed.World just decided "oh here's an error, how about you lose all that work"

So, I'm not re-writting all of it. Here's the summary:

This is a great knife. Blade is really thin. Crossbar lock is very well tuned. The burlap micarta is very much burlap micarta. I've used it for food prep, made fatwood shavings, cut a bunch of paracord, and reduced boxes to confetti. It's been very solid. It displaced my previous long term EDC (the CJRB Maximal) for the time being but honestly both of these knives are excellent. You cannot go wrong with either.

If the 2.88" blade is too small for you, there's a newly released "Over Yonder" with a 3.35" blade that might be to your liking. Same blade thinness, just longer.

Here's a bunch of photos, including some comparisons to the Maximal.

image

image

image

image

image

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[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 2 points 2 months ago

One thing to note about the Iridium: it is not an assisted open knife. However, as mentioned, the crossbar lock is very fidget friendly and you can very easily get a hang of pulling back on the lock and flicking the knife blade open to deploy the blade and having it lock in place at the end of your hand movement. Same to close it. You can also open and close it a variety of ways with the thumbstuds. A bit of practice and you'll get the hang of it.

[โ€“] cetan@piefed.world 2 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

I agree with @dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world. The Iridium and the Ontario Rat would be my choices. I have the Ontario Rat 2 (a 3" version instead of the 3.5" that is the Rat 1) and it's rock solid. A great choice.
I don't have an Iridium but I do have other Kershaw knives with their crossbar lock (their marketing name being the Duralock) and they're also excellent.

You cannot go wrong with either of those.

And yes, the crossbar lock design has a lot of different marketing names: AXIS lock (Benchmade), Duralock (Kershaw), Pivot Lock (Gerber), Able Lock (Hogue), Clutch Lock (Kizer), Glyde Lock (QSP) etc. But many companies just use the term crossbar lock.

16
submitted 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) by cetan@piefed.world to c/edc@sopuli.xyz
 

https://dailygalaxy.com/2026/02/30000-years-ice-age-travelers-toolkit-is-altering-human-history/

This is a fascinating article about the tools carried, possibly by one individual of the Gravettian culture, around 30,000 years ago in what is now the area of Austria/Czechia/Slovakia

https://dailygalaxy.com/2026/02/30000-years-ice-age-travelers-toolkit-is-altering-human-history/

In particular the items were likely bundled together in some sort of leather or wood container and had been re-shaped for different purposes due to wear and tear.

A substantial share of the assemblage exhibited fractures typically associated with projectiles, while other tools showed evidence of cutting, scraping, and drilling,โ€

From the article it seems that finds like this are very rare and previously tools have been found scattered and with a relationship to groups of people but not one individual.

19
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by cetan@piefed.world to c/pocketknife@lemmy.world
 

In this small community I might be late to the party but in case not, I thought I would pass along a rather fun YouTube channel that I discovered just recently called Knife Nerdery

https://www.youtube.com/@KnifeNerdery/videos

It seems custom made (har?) for this community. Especially the latest two videos, the most recent of which goes through a short history of folding knives with blades bigger than their handles.

Not trying to astroturf for the channel or anything, I don't have any association. Just figured I would pass it along.

 

Not intending it to be a theme but, for my second post in a row, I'll be discussing a knife designed by another YouTube knife personality.

In this case Ben "What is Up Guys!" Pettersen. Originally seen in BladeHQ.com videos, Ben left and started his own company KNAFS where he's been slowly and steadily working and improving. You may have seen his "Lander" series of knives, or maybe you know him from the WE/Civivi designs like the Banter series.

The Civivi Sendy is a bit of an odd duck for Ben, and his design language. But it's not an odd knife by any means.

The Sendy is loosly inspired by the classic barlow-shaped folding knife popuplar since the 1600's (and possibly before). It lacks the classic barlow bolster but otherwise does a good stand-in for the pattern.

The Sendy can be had with a, IMHO, fairly nondescript drop-point blade. I don't personally think that blade shape gives it as much character as the other option seen here: the spey blade. Traditionally this is a blade shape used in animal husbandry, in particular the castration of sheep. For that, and other reasons, it's long been one of the 3 blade shapes included in the stockman pattern of slipjoint knives.

While the shape may have had somewhat, uncomfortable, origins, the utility of the shape cannot be overstated. This is a great jack-of-most-trades blade shape.

A flipper-tab only knife, the design keeps the roughly barlow shape true by posistioning the flipper in-line with the handle. You have to get on top of the flipper really, in order to open the blade. One might even argue it's a top flipper at that point.

Unlike a classic barlow, this is a locking knife. The liner lock is easy to access through a right-side cutout.

The Sendy in particular also has a nifty feature: in the handle it hides tweezers and a metal toothpick bring the utility factor even higher!

The tweezers are particularly excellent. Way better than the Victorinox ones you find in the Swiss Army Knife for sure.

You may have noticed as well that the scales are rather textured. In fact they mimic the wood grain pattern of cedar (the designer referencing cedar siding and shingles in particular). Originally the knife was to be called the Cedar but something about a copyright concern on the part of Civivi forced a last minute change.

Regardless of what it's called this is a great knife. After carrying the Maximal all summer I've been carrying the Sendy ever since. It's been used quite a bit and sharpened twice. The Nitro-V blade steel can take a very fine edge and it's quite stainless. Blade thickness of 2.3mm is very efficent with the full flat grind.

This is not a knife for heavy duty tasks and I wouldn't want to use it for hours on end. That's not its job. It's a single-blade multi-tool that (IMHO) looks good in most any setting and performs well to boot.

30
submitted 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) by cetan@piefed.world to c/pocketknife@lemmy.world
 

If you spend any time on YouTube watching knife content, you'll probably come across the KnifeCenter.com channel and David C. Andersen. Not only is he the host of their YouTube videos he's also a knife designer.

And he's always been a proponent of user-friendly, practical, no-nonsense, and affordable pocket knives for everyday use.

His first design is certainly that. You might say, much like the Civivi Elementum, it's almost too "generic" but I disagree. This is a knife that is an easy entry into carrying a knife daily for those who've never done it before.

The Maximal has a 2.95 inch (74.9 mm) blade and an overall length of 6.89 inches (175 mm). A practical drop-point blade shape with, surprisingly a small amount of recurve towards the back. I couldn't get any good photos of the recurve on my typical stump-as-photo-table as it is too bumpy, but here's a close approximation.

It's so subtle that I thought it was a bad grind from the factory, but that doesn't seem to be the case. It will probably be removed naturally after the first two re-sharpenings.

Because CJRB is making it, they're using (with the base models) their proprietary AR-RPM9 steel. This is derived from another word salad steel: 9CR18MoV but with better properties. The knife pictured here, however, has a newer steel. Called AR-SFII, it's also proprietary to CJRB but an upgrade from their RPM9. Supposedly equivalent to 154CM (a rather famous knife steel, used extensively by Bob Loveless who popularized the drop-point blade shape back in the day), it's an improvement over their AR-RPM9 in edge retention while retaining toughness.

And while all of this may be true, I do not have the skill set to verify these claims. What I do know is that, based on my use, AR-SFII will hold an edge for a very long time.

Now I've not been abusing the knife, but I've not been babying it either. It was my main carry all summer and has cut food, paracord, zip ties, made wood shavings for fire building, and yes, broken down a box or two or a bunch, and it's still relatively sharp.

In-hand it's comfortable for me but not something I would use for hours on end. (What pocket knife /does/ meet that criteria?). The drop-point blade, 2.5mm thick, is a very capable slicer but I do wish it was hollow-ground instead for easier food prep. The crossbar lock is well tuned and the pivot houses ceramic ball bearing washers.

The clip is deep carry but not obnoxiously so like many knives today. This version has full carbon fiber scales (no overlays). This is my first carbon fiber handled knife and I have to say, it's quite nice. Smooth and lightweight like aluminum but not cold to the touch and won't show its wear as easily.

Here it is next to some similarly sized knives that I had close at hand. The Kizer Drop Bear and the Benchmade Mini Griptilian. The mini Grip is a bit smaller than the other two but I think it lives in the same basic space.

The Kizer has 154CM steel and micarta scales. Had I purchased the Griptilian just a few weeks before I did, it too would have a 154CM blade, but when I was finally ready to buy one they had switched over to S30V (where they've remained for almost 7 years).

Anyway, as you can see the Maximal lives in a happy middle ground of knife shapes and features. The blade is not as utilitarian as the Drop Bear and not as aggressive as the Griptilian. The taller scales fit my hand well and the overall length is not too long (bigger hands might have a different experience). And the crossbar lock gives it the fidget factor that's very satisfying.

This is definitely a knife that I would recommend to basically anyone. (Not a lawyer, check local knife laws, etc). It won't dull quickly and it should be easy to re-sharpen. It doesn't sit obtrusively in the pocket nor does it get lost, and it offers a great shape for a large variety of tasks.

I paid $70 for mine but the base model can be had for $50 and sometimes less. For some that may seem like a lot of money for a knife but with the fit and finish offered, you're certainly Maximalizing your money with this one. (I'll show myself out.)

 

There is something very compelling (to me) about the sodbuster pattern slipjoint. It is old (some say back to the Romans but that seems very suspect) and very utilitarian. A good working knife. It was compelling enough to Case Knives they got a trademark for "Sod Buster" and built a whole line of knives around it.

If you're interested in one telling of the history of the sodbuster pattern, this video is informative. (I have no way of verifying accuracy however.)

I'm pretty sure Case also popularized the yellow synthetic handle. At least enough that others copied from them. Imperial/Schrade* certainly did.

The Imperial Sodbuster, or as it's affectionately called "IMP22Y", is an inexpensive knife to be sure. I purchased it a year and a half ago during a brief "how close can I get to $10 and still get a good knife" phase. (See previously reviewed Watchman and Duratech.)

In terms of matching the sodbuster pattern and the classic yellow handle it gets high marks. It claims to be 7CR17MoV steel and it cost $7.99 at the time. After that everything goes down hill.

Out of the box a few things were noticeable:

  1. the brass pivot and pins came pre-tarnished, with obvious green rings around each one, staining the handle.
  2. the grind was pretty far off
  3. very stiff opening with a pronounced gritty/grinding feel. There is no need for a half-stop with this knife because every part of the movement could be considered a stop. This is not a knife that will accidentally close on your fingers. This is a knife that will barely close at all.

It's this last part that gets us back to the title of this post. For you see, that gritty/grinding feel was not left-over debris from manufacturing, but indeed, is the rounded tang of the knife blade and the back spring slowly but surely grinding itself to death.

As best as I could do with the macro function on my phone (and some cropping) you can see the pivot end of the knife. You can clean the knife to perfection and within a few times of opening and closing it, you're left with a mass of metal shavings and a shiny knife tang. I have no idea if they are wearing equally or if one is going to "win" but in the end we all lose with this knife.

Ouroboros, the snake eating its own tail, is meant to represent infinity and the cycle of life.
This is not Ourorboros. This is more Pizza the Hut.

The knife sits on my desk as a reminder of the fact that no matter how bad something can be, there's always a way it can be worse.

  • (The muddy history of Schrade and Imperial knives is probably best left to Wikipedia.)

As an aside, I've moved accounts from lemmy.world to piefed.world. I have no idea how this is going to post to the community. sorry in advance for any weirdness.

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