I might have misunderstood you, sorry. Do you mean a fillet or chamfer on the corners? (ie rounding as viewed from the top?) Or do you mean a chamfer such that the part's second layer is slightly wider than the first layer?

Never tried deeper, could probably do more. But first only ensures it'll never affect the part strength. Good question, theoretically the higher layers will still pull on the end; but at least the first layer isn't de-adhering purely because of its own horizontal shrink

Lots of great advice in this thread. To add to it:

Warp happens because of uneven cooling causing long straight lines of plastic to pull stronger than the bed adhesion. Sticking it to the bed better has had lots of focus in this chat. But you can also try to influence those first two parameters.

Other than breezes, Uneven cooling might be because those corners of your plate aren't heating as efficiently---possibly they aren't as insulated or the heating element just doesn't reach there as strongly, causing cooler spots. The part itself may also be cooling too quickly there because of holes or channels, where a more evenly solid part might cool slower and more consistently.

My favourite hack for reliable designs though, especially if you wanted to share them and don't want other people to worry as much about the warp, is creating relief features to address the long straight lines issue. Basically, on long lines heading into corners like you have here, a couple of centimeters from the corner, create a one layer high thin cut across the long line such that the slicer will interrupt the continuous line there. Make it as thin as you can get the slicer to register. Usually 0.1mm is sufficient. This is usually small enough that it will still end up closed over in the final part, so it won't be apparent as an actual gap, but it will result in significantly less strain pulling on that corner.

Mujadara/megadara is a classic lentil+rice dish. I love it. At its core, it's burnt/heavily caramalised onions, brown lentils, rice, salt. Cumin is a must imo, along with a pinch of cinnamon. Add a pinch of baking soda to the onions 2 mins into cooking them, and they'll caramalise way faster

Baker's 9

• brotato - 2d shooter+deck builder
• mindustry - I recommend this all the time. Open Source, RTS + FactoryBuilder, fantastic game.

Both < 1gb

Surprisingly, mindustry hasn't been mentioned yet! Great quality, well thought out, addictive combination of tower defence, RTS and factory building.

And a background cow tool!

build123d is vastly superior code-cad imo. Faster, more expressive, more aligned with how traditional cad designers work

https://github.com/axelf4/vim-strip-trailing-whitespace

There are plugins that will only trim modified lines, which resolves that issue

Fascinating perspective, I hadn't considered the business confidence angle but the metaphor of the body storing more energy from a feast after starvation was great

Glove80 is probably the best commercial option, but is very expensive. For the combination you are looking for, DIY might be a good solution, depending on how adventurous you want to go. Linear choc/low-profile switches are not loud, but hard to silence. If you want silent, you'll need to tape mod and lube them (search up how). That isn't difficult, but is time-consuming. If your time is too valuable, there are sites available where you can pay people to do it before sending keys to you.

I recently designed a super easy-build portable board that I put together in an hour, for $80 and only very basic soldering skills. Shipping takes a while though. The low cost comes from having few switches/keys and using a chinese microcontroller. If you aren't ready for that few keys, there are options like the kyria or Lily that are bigger.

For portability, I'm just in the final stages of completing this 3D printed case generator that holds the two halves of a split keyboard together magnetically, protects the PCB, and has quick-unfold tent legs that you can customise at design time for your desired tenting. You could use this for whatever custom PCB you chose.