If you do the Gameboy player. Get a flippy drive and you can use homebrew for it.

I stopped liking with PlayStation after E3 2013. Back then they took a free service PlayStation Network and charged people monthly for the privilege. Let alone how they mishandled the PS Vita and blamed their failure on Cellphone gaming.

I eventually got a PS4 in 2020 @ $200CAD to close out some series which started on PS3. But I never felt the need or want to get anything newer.

So the whole process.

1. Print the first part, the first part has an interfacing slope which is 3d printer friendly. Which results in some stair stepping, but this time this is what we are trying to get.

2. Remove the first part from the print bed.

3. Start the second print.

4. Auto stop the second print after the first layer, and align it with the first print. The first print has a notch which is used to align the 2 parts.

5. Resume printing. The second print is design to print over air without supports, but with the first print in place it now prints on top of that and fuses the 2 parts together.

The reason I am doing this is so I can print parts which is larger than my print bed, without using fasteners or adhesive to bond them together. This method basically welds the parts together. This was just a small test print to prove the theory

When I was getting into PC gaming, I bought Wolfenstein the new Order as a DVD. What it turned out to be was Wolfenstein the new order.... on steam, with several DVDs (4-8) that had the games data. I installed it this way once and never again.

Printables has paid models now if you want to support a designer. I remember being recommended MyMiniFactory for more premium print a while ago.

With that said, I think it depends on what you are looking for and what you are trying to make. I see a lot of comments recommending Blender and FreeCAD. So I wanted to give you alternatives.

With that said, Blender is for 3D Modeling (think molding with Clay), where as FreeCAD is more like blueprints. Both have a high learning curve, and Blender has a large community to help new users. FreeCAD is getting there, but has a steep learning Curve. TinkerCAD and Fusion from Autodesk may get some hate here (for many good reason), but are the easiest softwares to get into if you want to make mechanical design.

I grew up with cassettes. Type II was a rarity and not what you’d buy from the store. Those were type I tapes.

Plus the whole format was a compromise. CDs almost whipped them out, but when digital came both were gone in a flash.

I think the only benefit of cassette today is making mix tapes, but on a retail and purchasable music standpoint. They weren’t good.

SpongeBob SquarePants and the Cosmic Shake. Nothing spectacular but it’s a solid kids platformer

This is a lot. Buggier than I’d thought it’d be.

Tried to change the background color and it crashes the settings app. Search works for exact spelling only and not context or meta data. Search for image and music and you’ll get nothing.

However there is a lot of potential and it’s what I’d install on a MacBook as an alternative. Maybe next release would be good.

A 3D printer is a tool first and foremost.

These days outside of poorly designed fire hazards any model you can get will be good.

For my two cents avoid the following traps.

• all plastic construction. Looks nice but assume you will need to service it at some point.

• no spare parts available. Basically go on Amazon and type “print bed for model of printer” and if you find nothing it’s not getting parts or service.

What to get then. Brands are fickle so these are the features I look for.

• thermal run away protection. If it doesn’t have the run away yourself.

• heated bed. Helps with adhesion

• removable build plate. Easy service and since the build plate is consumable good to have

• auto bed leveling. It’s not 2018 and manual leveling is a waste of time.

• direct drive extruders. Bowden isn’t bad but if you want consistency direct drive really helps

Brands I would recommend is Creatily since it’s a good budget machine (do research first their naming is crap) and Prusa since most machines are based off of theirs.

If you live in Southern Ontario. Another Canadian Brand is Reid’s Dairy.

Pro: Price, Convenience, Looks

Cons: Much like buying an "iPhone" from Temu, the price is usually reflected in the quality.

Don't get me wrong, there are cheep smart watches if you look for them or go second hand. But what you'll find advertised on Temu isn't it.

Build quality is usually the first to suffer, but you'll find mislabeled battery info a 500mah instead of the promised 1000mah. Or an LCD instead of an OLED.

But those are things we can adapt too. The biggest problem is software. That'll do and close enough has been the name of the game for years now. And sometimes "smart" just means it can (badly) track your steps and pretend to check your heart rate with a led pretending to be a sensor.

Alternative

If you are looking for any budget electronics try looking for last years or a few years ago models. I got a Garmin Forerunner 235 in 2022 for 1/5 of its asking price because I found a deal on eBay.

I'd also look into the landscape of the market you are buying into and seeing who is actually making these things, and what is running on it.

For smart watches I found the answer was

Apple

Android with Watch OS (Samsung google and many more)

Garmin

If the watch isn't running android watch os or is made by Apple or Garmin. Assume its good too be true and look into it more, or look elsewhere.

Good news China is lazy and one clone usually is made by many factories and someone else made a video about it. Might not be the same name, but it'll be close enough.

For the first time in over 10 years. LBP Vita. Wanted to record it and just got sucked back in.

Also playing LBP PSP but not getting as sucked in