How do you prefer to do it? I find the weapon wheels to be way too clunky especially when playing games like Doom Eternal.

I've been using the back buttons. Regular press for 1 2 3 4 and long press 225ms for 5 6 7 8. For some games a button chord for 9 and 10 but that's rarely needed.

225 ms delay seems like a sweet spot. It's short enough to switch guns quickly but long enough to make it different from a regular press.

I think it would be even better to have a proper numpad on the back of the steam deck but that would require some modifications. I think having 6 small back buttons per side is manageable and would greatly enhance FPS games.

My 3D printer does not have any heat insulation on the bed at the moment. It also takes quite a while to heat up and probably wastes a lot of energy maintaining the temperature.

Is this something that makes sense to do? I would probably cover the bottom with some sort of insulating foam. I also don't want it to fall off after a while as adhesives tend to do after a while.

Is this worth doing and what materials should I use for this?

Which do you prefer? I have the option to do both but milling seems to take awfully long and produces a lot of noise and glass fiber dust. It has the benefit of not needing etch resist which is also messy.

Chemical etching with iron chloride is also quite messy. First applying etch resist, removing part of it, etching etc. It is much simpler though and you don't need a CNC machine for this.

I made an enclosure for build-in induction cooking hobs. The build-in models are usually much cheaper and have better features than the free-standing ones. The corner blocks and ventilation grills are 3D printed and the side panels are 6mm thick aluminium composite plates. The plates are glued to the corner blocks using epoxy.

The price of the ACP plates and glue combined is still far cheaper than the difference between build-in and free-standing induction hobs and it's quite a simple model.

Here is the model and design file.

https://www.printables.com/model/1769315-induction-hob-enclosure

Normally you'd post a FixMyPrint issue where the OP asks for a solution. Here instead I post an issue and the cause/solution immediately as well, hoping that it helps others.

This issue looks this way in a CoreXY printer, on a Cartesian printer you probably have only one axis looking weird.

The top part of the image has two printed objects in it, they're corner blocks for an enclosure I'm making. The right one has a bend in it. The toolhead would consistently move 1mm to the right or left at the exact same location. Normally a layer shift occurs due to warping or loose belts or hitting the infill somehow.

The left block is what it's supposed to look like.

Upon closer inspection of my belts it appears that one of them was stretched a small amount. These are cheap generic belts from Aliexpress that did last quite a while but were probably not the highest quality. At some point the filling material breaks and the belt stretches by a small amount. When that part of the belt goes over the stepper motor you get a layer shift.

Now I got Gates belts and hope that they last longer.

This is an article from 10 years ago but so far I have not seen any 3D printers actually use this.

Currently I'm designing a new toolhead for my 3D printer and I want to make the footprint as small as possible to maximize the usable print area. I'm redesigning an Ender 5 so that the bed of an Ender5Plus fits into the frame of the Ender5 and that most of the area is accessible by the nozzle. The toolhead is one obstacle.

My current toolhead has two 5015 blower fans, one on each side, and they add a significant amount of bulk to the toolhead. The fan ducts are also quite bulky.

Have any of you tried a small aquarium pump with a length of Bowden tubing and perhaps a blunt syringe tip at the end? This way you can precisely direct airflow to the plastic flow and not cool the nozzle down too much, which is unavoidable with blower fans.

I'm thinking towards those cheap 5v USB aquarium fans that you can buy for a few euros from China.

I'm designing a new toolhead for my heavily modified Ender 5. At the moment it uses a MicroSwiss all metal hotend with dual blower fans, a tiny 404010 fan on the heatbreak (barely enough) and on top of it an Orbiter 1.5 extruder.

It has been working quite well but I want to get something with higher flow capabilities to push print speeds. Perhaps even dual Orbiter extruders and two hotends.

After I'm done modifying the Ender5 it will have a 314x314 bed which should allow for dual hotends without losing too much space.

Ideally I end up with a new toolhead so that the old one may be kept as backup.

I have been eyeing the Orbiter V2 with the Phaetus Rapido UHF but I'm open to suggestions. What have you been using and do you have any advice? There are a ton of options.

I want to start a DWC hydroponics system on my balcony but have concerns about the safety of the plant containers.

The first idea was to use plastic sauce buckets from the local snackbar. They're a waste product and you can easily get a large stack of 10L buckets for free just by asking. They're initially food safe material and all you have to do is wash out the sauce residue.

The problem is though that this food safety won't last long in sunlight. The plastic will inevitably break down and release contaminants into the plant water and therefore will also end up in whatever vegetables that are growing in it.

I have considered getting other materials, such as glass vases or perhaps stoneware. Both are heavy and anything large enough is also quite expensive. Weight is a consideration as well on a balcony.

Another option would be to cover the plastic buckets with some plate material with a few holes in it for the plants.

Am I overthinking this? I'm trying to avoid plastic whenever possible but with the right precautions it shouldn't be that bad.

I want to grow my own supply.

Hi, I'm trying to attach an ER11 chuck to a 775 motor to use as a spindle for my custom CNC machine. The machine is meant to make circuit boards so a 775 motor is good enough for that. Perhaps wood engravings could work too.

The issue is however, the chuck I'm trying to attach has way too much play when putting it on the shaft. The bottom of the ER11 chuck is not flat either so pushing it all the way down to the motor is not working.

The goal for this setup is to mill traces of 0.2mm wide. Perhaps 0.1mm if the V-bit allows for it so it should be on as straight as possible.

I have tried putting the chuck in the freezer overnight in an attempt to make the hole a bit tighter but that was not good enough.

Is there a good method to do this? I could just order a readily made 775 spindle from Ali but that seems a bit wasteful.

This is an idea that entered my mind. As far as I understood lithium ion batteries still need oxygen from the air to burn.

They don't provide their own oxidizer IIRC but they do reignite when left to dry because they rapidly build up heat again. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Edit: I was wrong: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352152X24008739

The cathode breaks down into oxygen among other things.

Would it make sense to have a lithium ion battery inside an airtight enclosure and fill it up with nitrogen? This way the only source of oxygen is from the decomposing cathode but that should react away quickly. The fire will be much less intense than in regular air. Assuming the enclosure holds.

Is this a silly idea? Is it even worth doing?