Hi. I have a Kia Niro. I do the maintenance on it. Here are some part numbers and other info that's useful for that maintenance. I'm posting here so I can find my notes for next time. 😅

• oil:
  • oil filter: 26300-35505
  • oil viscosity: 0W-16 (hybrid cars)
  • oil capacity: 3.8 liters
  • oil filter torque: 11.8Nm to 15.7Nm
  • drain plug gasket: 21513-23001
  • drain plug socket: 17mm
  • drain plug torque: 34.3Nm to 44.1Nm
• tires:
  • size: 205/60R16 (92 S, T, or H) (in that order, first available)
  • lug nut torque: 115Nm
  • lug nut socket: 21mm
• other:
  • windshield washer fluid: 3.7 liters
  • engine (and inverter?) coolant: UM020 CH263
  • engine air filter: 28113-AT100

I was gifted this ~2010 Toshiba Portégé. Surprisingly small and thin for its age. I was hoping to revive it, but it has only 1GB of memory ootb.

Apparently it can be upgraded up to 5GB with one spare slot that currently sits empty.

I found 2 physically compatible identical 2GB modules but no matter which one I plug in, when I start the computer it just starts the fan on highest setting and nothing else happens.

Before I go into any more detail, I found this info online:

The Toshiba Portege R600 Laptop takes the PC2-6400 DDR2-800 200pin SDRAM SODIMM memory type

My sticks look like this:

Are they compatible to PC2-6400 DDR2-800 200pin SDRAM SODIMM? I honestly can't tell.

I read the manual which says the modules need to be "Toshiba approved" but it does not say which/what Toshiba approves.

Plus this, which I did follow (note the negative):

Do not try to install or remove a memory module under the following conditions.

a. The computer is turned on.
b. The computer was shut down in either Sleep or Hibernation Mode.
c. Wake-up on LAN is enabled.
d. Wake-up on Wireless LAN is enabled.
e. The wireless communication switch is turned on.

And this does not happen:

If you install a memory module that is not compatible with the computer, the Power indicator will flash (on for 0.5 seconds, off for 0.5 seconds) in the following way;
■ If there is an error: repeatedly flashes orange twice, then white or green once

The power indicator ⏻ stays white all the time and does not blink.

TIA

So I'm repurposing an old laptop motherboard to use as a HDD music player. It's all very janky but it works. Eventually I'm going to build a custom case so I can have it on display with my stereo system without being embarrassed. But I'm down to the small annoyances now:

The board has two LEDs soldered on, one is a steady green to show the system is on and running. The other blinks orange to say the board is running on direct power from a wall socket (because I removed the battery).

Would it work to just desolder and yank them off? There's no circuit that'll bork the system if they're removed, right?

If possible, I'd like to draw a wire from where the green ("power on") LED is currently placed, to have a front panel light when I make the box for it. Any tips on that?

Thanks in advance!

Things that have not worked (so far):

Youtube video recommended a specific bike lubricant but that didn't work.

I read hitting it with a hammer could help knock some of the rust loose but so far nada.

How it got stuck: I got doored pretty bad a few months before getting pregnant several years ago and basically stopped riding completely afterwards bc drivers are such assholes in the city where I live.

My stbx always chastised me for storing it in the house, and after we moved together the last time in 2021, he started making me keep it outside under a tarp.

Now he's gone and it's my only means of transportation, but the lock is stuck like a yoke around the neck.

I can feel something turning inside after a half revolution when I try to unlock it with a key, but I can't even remember if it's supposed to make a full revolution and is getting stuck halfway or if that's as far as it's supposed to turn (as in, is the rust is inside the barrel or the keyhole?).

Any other tips or ideas to get it open?

My dad said he thinks worst case scenario we can just cut it off, but it's a kryptonite lock and I thought they were supposed to be impossible to cut?

I was going to buy a BBQ until I saw one amongst some bins at the side of a road. Took it home and have now cleaned it up.

The only issue is these grill brackets that hold the grill in place and completely degraded. One is missing, the other two are so rusted they bend easily.

Any idea what these are called and where I might get replacements? The BBQ is a knock off Weber, no idea of the brand, and I couldn't see equivalent parts on the Weber website.

Thanks in advance.

It's still drying fine as far as I can tell, the noises I attach here a recording of only happen around idk, 5% of the total drying time. They start, then stop again after a a few seconds or a minute, throughout the whole drying process.

Mainly I was just wondering if anyone could imagine what it might be, what I could take a look at, or if it's nothing to worry about. I understand it's probably a long shot :D

Thanks for whoever takes a look at this, here is the recording, first half is the noise, second half is normal running: https://gofile.io/d/RyWmFq

My two year old stepped on my glasses while at a picnic. I wear these daily and it's hard to find a suitable replacement.

Frames are plastic . Lenses are plastic and not prescribed. These were about $20 (us) and the brand is from a fishing line of equipment called Ugly Stick.

I have tried to find this exact kind again online and have not been able to find them. I have another pair that is adjacent to these but they look differently because of the colors and the lenses are a different tint.

I would love some advice on how to fix the plastic frame so that it will be sturdy again.

I'm not sure what other information I can provide about the glasses or what questions I am failing to head off, so please ask away.

Thanks in advance.

Pads started peeling and shedding plastic everywhere. We didn't want to get replacements so I peeled off all the plastic, kept the cushions and used an old jean with some wool to make it better than it was before.

I have 25 year old Grados that still have their original pads. I don't know why AKG couldn't even stand 4 years of occasional use 🤷

I was trying to remove the backplate and my hand slipped and I accidentally scratched it with the screwdriver. I think there used to be a transistor here. Is this fixable? I have basic soldering skills.

Edit: This is the back of the CPU socket so I'm kind of freaking out.

Hi!

Im working on a project to disassemble this crappy cheap bt speaker and mount it i side an old phone. But ive encountered a problem. Many parts are glued stuck. The battery for example. I dont want to use violence to remove it because it could be damage leading to a nuclear explosion. Any advise in how to proceed?

Bought most of the stuff from garage sale. Battery was a gift

I used a light switch as an on off switch for the amplifier.

I don't quite microphone interface yet, but I should have something in my junk drawer.

It's pretty loud so I haven't don't a full test I'll have to go outside and set it up

I'll need to get more clips and Velcro tape

Cross-gepostet von: https://feddit.org/post/25478864

Good day,

I am attempting to diagnose and repair a Lamona Dryer, model FLM8800.

The issue was with the water pump that failing has burned some component on the PCB module.

The control board is labeled as CTI-600 and TBM-CEM1. It also features an E.G.O TDP FMBC module (Article Number: 32035234, Lamona SKU: A22124384, priced at £80).

In the attached images, where seems to be clear where the issue is, there are two specific components I am struggling to identify:

A transistor

A second component adjacent to the transistor, which appears to be a capacitor or possibly a diode.

Could anyone provide insight into what these components might be? If you have experience with this board or know where a schematic or service manual for this board might be available, your guidance would be invaluable. I suspect the transistor could be a standard switching type, such as a MOSFET or BJT, but I am unsure of its exact specifications. The second component resembles a capacitor, but I would appreciate confirmation or correction.

I have already contacted Lamona support, but I am exploring all avenues to make the repair more economic and ovoid waste.

Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.

Hello folks, I have this old metal casserole stand and one of its handles broke off (images on link). It holds a 9 inch diameter casserole. The metal part is about 3/16 - 1/4 inch diameter. The material is possibly iron, (or maybe steel?) (magnets stick to it).

I would like to repair it, but I am not very knowledgeable of metal work, The goal is that it becomes usable again with the casserole (and food inside!) so I am looking into a sturdy and durable fix. What would be the best way to fix it? epoxy? soldiering? any recommended technique?

Thanks a lot in advance for any information or advice you can share!

Cheers!

I'm interested in modding some old Xbox 360 and PS2 controllers. I see hall effect sticks for sale online but I'm not sure if it's as easy as replacing them and being done with it. I've read that DualSense controllers require calibration or something. Is it a difficult task to mod game controllers? I do have basic soldering skills. Thank you. Also, sorry if this isn't the best community for my question. It seemed the most relevant.

I have a Lenovo ThinkCentre M900 Tiny (10FL) which has been working fine. Recently, I had an HDD failure, and replaced it with an SSD. This time, I decided to go with ZFS (single drive, kinda pointless, but I get scrubbing). Every once in a while, I'm getting errors while scrubbing. It's always 1-2 read or write errors. And it never reappears if I clear the error and run another scrub.

The data isn't important, and it's backed up, so I'm not too worried about it. But, the symptoms make me think that it's an issue of the SATA port inside. Is it possible to replace the SATA port inside this device? I wasn't able to find anything like part number etc. online and it looks like I need to replace the whole board. Any help is appreciated.

I have two previous phones with cracked screens but are otherwise functioning devices. I was thinking about fixing them and giving one to a relative and use the other for its camera. I've noticed that many aftermarket screens that you find on eBay and Amazon on much cheaper than OEM suppliers like iFixit. Sure, there are "for parts" listings on eBay but rarely do they have a good screen. So those (somewhat) cheap aftermarket screens seem like a good deal. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

So my Siemens Fridge has been acting weird lately. The freezer under the fridge has randomly started to cool to -30°C. The temperature is set to -18°C and the freezer actually gets back to that after reaching -30 for a while and then warming back up again. It sounds like the compressor is working almost the entire day and the temperature at the top seems to almost always display the correct temperature. Ive yet to check wether it actually reaches -30, but my vegetables in the fridge have started to freeze 🙃 Ive noticed that manually rebooting the fridge helps to get it started and I plan on doing it automated until I can fix it myself. Siemens wants 120€ just for a technician to come look the the problem and because I am a cheap college student, I'd really like to fix it myself. Is there any steps I can take to further locate the problem or should I let a technician come look at my fridge?

Its a Siemens KG25FA40/01 fridge and freezer.

Thanks in advance :)

I have a Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra that I'm considering for a midframe replacement. Is a heatless display opener safe to use to separate the display panel from the frame? I've opened a fair few iPhones before but I've only ever done midframe + display replacements for androids. This is my personal device so I'm just trying to save money. I feel like I'll probably end up taking a loss if I try to sell the panel and frame, as I'd rather not replace those with aftermarket parts, so I'd just like to ditch the current frame itself.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/46981383

While iFixit's iOpener is a good tool and it was what I used replace the screen on my Pixel 7 Pro but I think a heat plate is a better option for any future project. I have two older phones that I want to fix up but this time I want to do things a little more 'professional.' There's a heat plate that Hugh Jeffreys uses (example here) but I haven't been able to find that exact one or even a similar product. During my search for a heat plate, I saw recommendations for a heat mat called CPB. While it looks like a good tool, it gives off the impression of a hobbyist project rather than a professional job. I will consider, though, if I can't find any good heat plates. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45JhacvmXV8

In this video we learn how to recycle cardboard into durable, waterproof projects that can be built nearly for free!

Wheat paste based glue, UV protection, and non biodegradable alternative demonstrated.

Still planning on using cardboard molded stuff in my present projects, so this recent upload is very apropos. As a former pro automotive painter, I could easily use several finishing techniques to make far better surfaces than this video, if I was not so physically limited. The cardboard clay is begging to become heavier body filler, and a newspaper pulp would likely make a finishing surface.

In order to make milking the cow easier, I built this head stanchion. The diagonal board slides up into place and when it's vertical, there is a 1-in hole drilled through all three boards. The front and back sandwich boards are 2x6s as is the diagonal sliding board. I had planned on sliding the board into place and then inserting a bolt through all three holes to lock it in place. She's too fast for me, and backs her head out knocking the board out of place before I can get the bolt through. I tried looking for spring-loaded plunger latches, but none of them are long enough or thick enough. I'm not married to the idea of using some sort of spring-loaded mechanism, but I will certainly entertain. Any idea that might make this easier. I'm not married to the idea of using some sort of spring-loaded mechanism, but I will certainly entertain any idea that might make this easier.

Any ideas on how I can accomplish this? Thank you in advance

hi there. my partner recently bought a ninja air fryer secondhand that unfortunately has a layer of rust inside the cook pot and on the removable grill we couldn’t see in the pictures. any suggestions on what to use to clean it up? is it even safe to prepare food in?

if it’s relevant it’s one of the “single basket” models. hope this is ok to post, thanks all

Problem

The laptop's keyboard works properly when the computer on first boots up, but if the computer enters any kind of low power state (i.e. goes to sleep, restarts, or shuts down) while still having a charged battery/power source plugged in then the keyboard stops working (even in the BIOS), except the backlight works and the brightness/accessory keys work. This problem persists in both windows and linux distros. On NixOS, the booting sequence messages a couple ACPI BIOS errors before starting and occasionally the kernel sends usb errors (error -71) which then crashes the desktop environment. When using 'showkey', some keys send very weird key presses.

What I've Tried

• multiple Operating Systems
• updating the BIOS, then flashing it back
• unplugging the keyboard from the motherboard, then replugging it

Looking for research ideas to add an exhaust fan in my bathroom. The room is small. Behind the door is the toilet, then a small sink cupboard, then a tub/shower with a window that opens by sliding upwards.

I don't think there's any electricity past the sink. Walls are lath and plaster.

And I'm not super skilled, but also not completely inept.

Are there any minimally invasive approaches for me to look into, or is this a full on contractor situation?

Thanks for any ideas.