this post was submitted on 04 Sep 2023
45 points (92.5% liked)

3DPrinting

15664 readers
21 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I was printing a benchy on my monoprice select miniwitha a e3d v6 nockoff and I saw plastic ozzing around my hotend

top 14 comments
sorted by: hot top controversial new old
[–] charmed_electron@programming.dev 23 points 1 year ago (1 children)

In my experience the hole that the thermistor goes into isn’t in the path of the filament. So probably what’s happening is either the nozzle or the tube that screws into the other side of the heater block is loose, allowing melted plastic to escape through a place other than the tip of the nozzle.

After you’ve cleaned it out, what I like to do before running filament through again is to turn the hot end on, let it come up to temp, then tighten the nozzle a bit more. The joint expands when heated so even if you’ve got it right at room temp it can still need tightening at the working temperature.

[–] DOPdan@lemmy.world 9 points 1 year ago

This is definitely the right answer, as I just had to deal with this after a nozzle change.

[–] PeachMan@lemmy.one 11 points 1 year ago (1 children)

That's filament leaking out, if it's coming through your thermistor that's a sign that your thermistor might be loose or something? You might need to disassemble, clean, and reassemble your whole hot end.

[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 10 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I feel like it shouldn't be possible to have filament oozing out through the thermister port/cartridge slot.

either it's a funky design, or something is very wrong- OP.... were you printing with red filament? The other thought I had was some sort of adhesive or thermal paste (which... is a bad idea. Most thermal paste decomposes at printing temps... but I've never seen red thermal paste.)

[–] PeachMan@lemmy.one 7 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Looking again, I feel like it's NOT coming through the thermistor, it's probably coming through the heat break and just dripping down onto the thermistor. That's pretty common when your bowden tube isn't seated properly. Either way, the thing to do is disassemble, clean, re-assemble. Probably put in a fresh bowden tube, too.

[–] derpo@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

That’s it precisely

[–] MooseBoys@lemmy.world 6 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Remove the rubber boot. Is it clean or covered in filament? My guess is, as others have said, the nozzle is loose. It should not be snug against the block but against the other feed pipe. If filament oozes out the sides of the threads, it might get pushed around the inside of the boot and come out the holes in the top.

[–] remotelove@lemmy.ca 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

It was likely a loose nozzle that wasn't properly heat tightened.

For those who don't know, after screwing the nozzle in cold, crank the hotend up to max (or hotter than you ever plan to print by about 10C) and tighten the nozzle again. The thermal expansion is different between an aluminum heat block and a brass nozzle. The extra tightening while hot can overcome this problem.

[–] MooseBoys@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

In my experience the issue is more commonly because the heat break is not threaded into the block far enough to begin with. What then happens is the nozzle bottoms out on the block before making contact with the heat break. You should think of the block as more of a coupler, and want the heat break and nozzle to press into each other within the block.

[–] remotelove@lemmy.ca 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

That is true, without a doubt. What I am saying is in addition to that.

Aluminum will expand more than brass when heated. There will be a gap created between the nozzle and the heat break when heat is applied. The block is a coupler, yes, but it is also a shrink fitting by default.

Thermal expansion is fun. ;)

[–] JohnDClay@sh.itjust.works 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I didn't know but it doesn't look good! Is it the same color as the filament you have in?

[–] batvin123@reddthat.com 2 points 1 year ago

Yes it is the same

[–] Tylerdurdon@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

Blood of the ghosts inhabiting your place. You need to call a priest to have an exorcism and make sure your start wearing 3 full cloves of garlic around your neck until it is performed. Good luck, man. Stay strong.

[–] RIP_Cheems@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

I would stop using it for now and replace the extruder if I were you.