Test failed successfully. Excess material hit the bed, cooled, head collided on next pass, layer shift. Keep the head clean and fine tune to eliminate over extrusion. If bed is not level and first layer bungled, same story after leveling and cleaning bed

Weird possibility! I once tried to lubricate my machine and put a drip or two on the threaded Z axis rod. BAD IDEA.

This lead to VERY minor slippage once the gantry hit a certain height, and it would do exactly this. Lots of loud collision, very scary.

...So make sure your Z rod isn't slipping, or slippery?

Looks like theres some other advice I'd try first but have you checked/calibrated the e-steps?

Esteps are easy to check, use a fine scale or calipers and a sharpie to mark the filament 100 & 110mm before it enters the hot end and then jog the extruder 100mm and measure how much it has actually extruded.

Tutorial here that covers pretty much every way to cal the steps but I suggest skipping from the set up down to the calculation and then to the "cowboy method" https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-calibrate-e-steps/

If that doesn't seem to be the culprit you could try keeping an eye on it when you have time to see if material keeps oozing a little when the nozzle reaches the end of a tool path or during a travel. If so you can try tinkering with coasting and retraction settings. If defects seem to occur more during travels there are settings to avoid traveling over printed areas or you can try enabling z-hops.

I'm shocked at how much it recovered. I'm also glad I'm not the only one still running an ender 3.

Do you have a multi meter? You might have to adjust the little screw for the y motor. I'll see if I can find the instructions for that. The wires in my pic are from the uart mod so I can do it in software.

Edit: people called it vref adjustment. You want it low enough that the motors don't overheat but high enough that it can move the bed and the print without skipping. If you have an aftermarket board the procedure might be different and you might be able to do it in settings.

Also if you haven't already, I would also recommend unscrewing the wires one by one in the green screw terminals and clip off the soldered ends and strip off enough to put the bare wire back in and screw them down to avoid the fire risk. Crimped ferrules would be better but that needs a crimper and the ferrules.

Here's what can happen with the stock soldered wire ends: And I caught this one as the electronics were off the printer and outside of my old ikea lack enclosure. If you dont notice it it could be really bad.

@amminadabz
I dont know this printer, but this looks like a massive Y axis shift because of a weak Y motor when any problem happens (i used to fix this by tweaking the stepper and get a better couple)

Ender 3, that's what.